I played in an old school Chainmail game today at Glenn Wilson's house. I played the Orcs/goblins and Joe Collins' playing the dwarfs. Joe set up a defensive position while I went on the attack. My first group of goblins broke from close combat against dwarf spearmen. They routed off the board. My second group of goblins took casualties from bow fire. I had them fall back when they reached 50% strength. They also eventually routed off the board at the end of the game. My archers managed to wipe out a unit of dwarf axemen. While my orc heavy infantry took out the dwarf spearmen before running into a were-bear. My orc heavy infantry went berserk and killed the were-bear. They reformed as the dwarf bowmen charged my heavy orc archers. The dwarfs lost the combat and routed into the orc heavy infantry to be wiped out to a man.
I was only left with two orc units and a marginal orc victory for controlling the game board. End of story...
Saturday, August 25, 2018
Monday, August 20, 2018
Current and future projects...
I made a concerted decision to completely sell off most of 28mm, 15mm, and 6mm scale collections. I had to much stuff for a one bedroom apartment. I kept my 28mm Franco-Prussian War armies and 28mm American War of Independence forces (NIB).
The next thing I did was determine what I'd do after that. I simplified things by keeping everything in one scale. I'm staying with 28mm figures. I would have liked to have done 15mm Great Pacific War. However, I'd have to buy 15mm Hispanic terrain to go with the armies.
Maybe later, much later. Like five years down the road.... LOL.
I did talk to friends. I'd planned to build two 28mm Macedonian Successor Kingdom armies for Neil Thomas' Ancient and Medieval Wargaming rules. I have 28mm Foundry Greek command. I'll fill in the rest with 25mm Old Glory next December 2019.
I have entire 28mm British, Hessian, and Continental plastic armies to assemble and paint. It will take most of the next eighteen months to complete. The rules set I'm using is British Grenadier. The Great Pacific War would be modified They Died For Glory. Those are my plans, so far....
Blake
The next thing I did was determine what I'd do after that. I simplified things by keeping everything in one scale. I'm staying with 28mm figures. I would have liked to have done 15mm Great Pacific War. However, I'd have to buy 15mm Hispanic terrain to go with the armies.
Maybe later, much later. Like five years down the road.... LOL.
I did talk to friends. I'd planned to build two 28mm Macedonian Successor Kingdom armies for Neil Thomas' Ancient and Medieval Wargaming rules. I have 28mm Foundry Greek command. I'll fill in the rest with 25mm Old Glory next December 2019.
I have entire 28mm British, Hessian, and Continental plastic armies to assemble and paint. It will take most of the next eighteen months to complete. The rules set I'm using is British Grenadier. The Great Pacific War would be modified They Died For Glory. Those are my plans, so far....
Blake
Sunday, August 19, 2018
Liquidating most of my 28mm figure collections....
I'm in the process of liquidating most of my 28mm figure collections. What remains is 28mm British Colonials. I'm not sure after this week what will remain. The 15mm SYW and 6mm Angolan/South African micro-armor has also been spoken for. If you're interested in any of the remaining figures, please email me at blakewoodwalker@gmail.com
Thanks,
Regards,
Blake Wood Walker
Thanks,
Regards,
Blake Wood Walker
Saturday, August 18, 2018
Review of Dave Schafner's 28mm ACW Muskets and Tomahawks
I played in Dave Schafner's 28mm ACW Muskets and Tomahawks game several weeks ago at Miniature Market's retail shop here in St. Louis, MO. I ran two 12 man Union green regular infantry regiments. Craig Ackerman (Rusty Musket) ran two 10 man regular Confederate infantry regiments.
The 28mm ACW rules are a variant of Muskets and Tomahawks. It's a specific card driven system where you can get both movement cards for both sides. I found this rather confusing. The Sword and The Flame is also card driven. However, everything happens in a specific order. There's a Movement, Fire, Close Combat, and then a Morale phase.
Dave's 28mm ACW house rules handles movement, or fire, or reloading. Everything is based on D6s. Morale test happen as the unit needs to test. Because of the randomness of the card play, you never know when your movement card for a particular unit might be played. I didn't see the point in playing enemy movement cards to confuse the enemy. Dave Schafner loved it.
Part of the problem was there was too many players on a 4' x 8' table to maneuver. That was out of the question. It then became a question of a slaughter-fest as troops got in range of rifled muskets. Craig Ackerman (Rusty Musket)rolled outstanding. His command was eventually liquidated. The Union left center was gone by the end of the game. I would take a casualty, roll morale, and fall back. This happened most of the game. I did inflict casualties on the Rebels, however, because of my large 12 man regiments.
You could also burn command figures for extra morale and firing effects, depending on the command figure. Another example of the "GW reroll" mentality that now pervades historical gaming. The game ended in bloody draw with not much being determined other another massacre of figures...
I do like 28mm ACW. It's been a long time since I played it. Most of my 15mm ACW experience has been as a Union commander playing Fire and Fury. I played 28mm Brother vs. Brother when I lived in Ames, IA at Iowa State Wargamers Guild. Craig and I agreed not to playtest 28mm ACW Muskets & Tomahawks again. Neither one of us liked it. If there had only been two players aside and room for maneuvering, I would have liked it better.
However, Mr. Schafner isn't the only one guilty of that. Many of my scenarios had too many troops and not enough terrain for maneuvering. That is something I'm trying to rectify in future gaming scenarios....
Blake
The 28mm ACW rules are a variant of Muskets and Tomahawks. It's a specific card driven system where you can get both movement cards for both sides. I found this rather confusing. The Sword and The Flame is also card driven. However, everything happens in a specific order. There's a Movement, Fire, Close Combat, and then a Morale phase.
Dave's 28mm ACW house rules handles movement, or fire, or reloading. Everything is based on D6s. Morale test happen as the unit needs to test. Because of the randomness of the card play, you never know when your movement card for a particular unit might be played. I didn't see the point in playing enemy movement cards to confuse the enemy. Dave Schafner loved it.
Part of the problem was there was too many players on a 4' x 8' table to maneuver. That was out of the question. It then became a question of a slaughter-fest as troops got in range of rifled muskets. Craig Ackerman (Rusty Musket)rolled outstanding. His command was eventually liquidated. The Union left center was gone by the end of the game. I would take a casualty, roll morale, and fall back. This happened most of the game. I did inflict casualties on the Rebels, however, because of my large 12 man regiments.
You could also burn command figures for extra morale and firing effects, depending on the command figure. Another example of the "GW reroll" mentality that now pervades historical gaming. The game ended in bloody draw with not much being determined other another massacre of figures...
I do like 28mm ACW. It's been a long time since I played it. Most of my 15mm ACW experience has been as a Union commander playing Fire and Fury. I played 28mm Brother vs. Brother when I lived in Ames, IA at Iowa State Wargamers Guild. Craig and I agreed not to playtest 28mm ACW Muskets & Tomahawks again. Neither one of us liked it. If there had only been two players aside and room for maneuvering, I would have liked it better.
However, Mr. Schafner isn't the only one guilty of that. Many of my scenarios had too many troops and not enough terrain for maneuvering. That is something I'm trying to rectify in future gaming scenarios....
Blake
Wednesday, August 8, 2018
I'm still alive...
Yes, I'm still alive. I haven't been online for two months. Now, I am. However, I've got to liquidate most of my gaming collections to come up with cash. This only good to those around the St. Louis metro area. I can't afford to ship the number of 28mm scale figures and 6mm South African and Angolan micro-armor outside of the local area.
Here is what I have:
28mm Figures:
28mm Colonial:
250 1880s Dervishers (primed)
100 1882 British infantry
380 1879 Zulu infantry
28mm Japanese/Koreans
250 Japanese samurai
150 Royal Korean army
Modern/Vietnam Era
90 Viet Cong infantry
36 US Marine infantry
32 ARVN Rangers
4 M113s (ARVN)
2 US Marine Sea Knights
6mm Scale Modern
1.33 1:1 scale Angolan Micro-Armor Battalion (two companies of BTR-60 and two companies of T-55s)
1.33 1:1 scale South African Micro-Armor Battalion (two companies of motorized infantry, one company of mechanized infantry and 1 MBT company)
Prices:
28mm: $1.00 per figures, $5.00 per vehicle, including case and foam. Everything painted except where indicated.
6mm: $300.00 for entire lot, including sabol bag and foam. Everything painted, based, and flocked for FFoT, III.
If interested anything, please email me at blakewoodwalker@gmail.com
Thanks,
Regards,
Blake Wood Walker
Here is what I have:
28mm Figures:
28mm Colonial:
250 1880s Dervishers (primed)
100 1882 British infantry
380 1879 Zulu infantry
28mm Japanese/Koreans
250 Japanese samurai
150 Royal Korean army
Modern/Vietnam Era
90 Viet Cong infantry
36 US Marine infantry
32 ARVN Rangers
4 M113s (ARVN)
2 US Marine Sea Knights
6mm Scale Modern
1.33 1:1 scale Angolan Micro-Armor Battalion (two companies of BTR-60 and two companies of T-55s)
1.33 1:1 scale South African Micro-Armor Battalion (two companies of motorized infantry, one company of mechanized infantry and 1 MBT company)
Prices:
28mm: $1.00 per figures, $5.00 per vehicle, including case and foam. Everything painted except where indicated.
6mm: $300.00 for entire lot, including sabol bag and foam. Everything painted, based, and flocked for FFoT, III.
If interested anything, please email me at blakewoodwalker@gmail.com
Thanks,
Regards,
Blake Wood Walker
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