How My Painting Evolved

My painting has evolved over the past two decades.  I painting Ral Partha Miniatures as a teenager.  But I really didn't get into learning how to paint until I was in college.  I discovered WH40K in 1990.  I then starting priming figures and highlighting miniatures.  My painting was horrible.  I used paint that was too thick.  I learned how to paint 30mm Redoubt Zulus in 1994-1997.  That is when my painting became much better.  But I didn't use inks and washes until the early 2000's. 

When I first started painting, I primed all my figures black.  When I painted my 28mm samurai and British colonial figures, I primed them white.  My Zulus and Darkest Africa figures were primed black.  My 28mm Medieval Koreans were primed black.  Priming makes a difference in how brillant the colors shine. 

After I prime a figure, I then do base colors.  I start with the unifom or clothing and then work out to armor, equipment, leather, hats, gun, and finally metal trim.  I use inks or washes on a figure when I do a particular color.  So I'll use a green ink for green paints, brown washes for flesh, black washes for armor, etc.  Once I've used an ink or wash, I then allow the figure to dry overnight.  I'll then come back the next day work on doing more base coats.  Once I'm done with all my base colors.  I then go back and work on correcting individual mistakes on a figure. 

However, I favor industrial style/assembly line painting to get units of figures done.  I am wargamer.  Not a collector.  I want to get as many units painted as possible.  I want them to look good.  But I want to get things done.  I don't believe in dying with a mountain of unpainted lead.  I have several rubbermaid containers of unpainted figures.  I want to keep it that way.  I don't see the point in hoarding unpainted lead that will never get painted.

But I digress.  I believe I now paint decent looking armies.  Part of it is due to the fact I use short cuts like inks and washes.  They make my life easier and allow me to cheat dry brushing.  I've never been a fan of dry brushing.  I can do it.  But I like to let inks and washes do my work for me.  I don't paint eyes anymore.  I use washes on faces and dirty up the figure's features. 

I use a variety of paints.  I've used the Delta Coat and craft paint available at Walmart for horse flesh and texturing bases.  I've also been a big fan of GW paints and Vajello Game Color.  I've also recently discovered Privateer Press P3 paints, too.  I also have a range of brushe available from Michael's and Games Workshop.  For fine detail work, I swear by Winsor & Newton Series No. 7 000 brushes.  This is what I use for fine detail work.  The Series No. 7 000 brushes take much abuse and last a long time.  I don't mind spending money on good brushes.  For the amount of paint I do, the Series No. 7 brushes are worth it.  I buy mine directly from Dick Blick Art Supplies online. 

GW has reformulated their paints.  I haven't broken down and bought their new paints, yet.  I still use a combination of paints for my various projects.  The GW paint pots require you to use matches to hold them open.  I also use a paint palette for the Delta Coat and Vajello paints that come in dropper bottles.  I still use the GW washes for highlighting flesh colors.  I use the old GW inks for some of my colors.  Though I mainly use the Winsor & Newton drawing inks for my miniatures.  The Winsor & Newton drawing inks give contrast to the figures and make a particular color stand out after it's been inked. 

I'm going more to the P3 paints to replace my old GW paints.  I like keeping a supply of paint on hand so I have something when I run out of a particular color.  I also use the Folk Art craft paint to prime my figures.  I use a brush on primer.  But I water it down with water so it isn't so thick with I apply to to a miniature.  I also a Krylar Gloss finish to seal my figures.  But I also generally use Woodland Scenics grass to flock the bases of my figures.  It gives a good look to particular army and matches my Geo-hex mats.